‘Saemidori’, an early-budding variety whose name translates to “lucid green,” is affectionately dubbed “Queen of Cultivars” by local makers. Tasting the Moriuchi production, it is not difficult to see why. Lauded for its structure and elegance, the sunbathed, mineral rich slopes of Uchimaki allow the warm-weather cultivar to thrive. Mr. Moriuchi’s natural cultivation style allows the bushes to gain some heartiness, particularly where frost and strong winds pose a distinct threat. Completely handpicked, this shincha is one of the delights of our early season. Bright and clean with low astringency and distinct aroma, the Saemidori is an excellent window into the Moriuchis’ theaculture.