Even in the subtropics a tea plant will lie in dormancy during the cool winter months, conserving its precious metabolic energy until spring. But in a changing climate, warm snaps often cause tea plants to “awaken” and release that coveted first flush of new growth in winter. This ‘Si Ji Chun’ oolong from our friend Mr. Feng is one such case. Harvested in January, meticulously baked and kneaded via oolong process, then rested until summer for charcoal pit roastings, Mr. Feng brings a chef’s sensibilities to reducing the lot’s rich winter nutrients into something toasty, rich and expressive.